The bespoke Suit
A Neapolitan suit is known for its distinctive characteristics and craftsmanship.
Neapolitan suits are renowned for their soft construction, which means they are unstructured or lightly structured. The canvas in the jacket is typically lightweight and flexible, allowing the suit to drape and mold to the wearer's body for a comfortable and natural fit.
Neapolitan suits often feature higher armholes, which allow for greater freedom of movement and a more tailored silhouette. The higher armholes contribute to the overall comfort and mobility of the suit, ensuring that it moves with the wearer's body.
We say in Italian – “la giacca deve essere stretta fuori ma larga dentro”
One of the hallmarks of a well-crafted Neapolitan suit is the presence of hand-sewn buttonholes. Hand-sewn buttonholes are considered a mark of superior craftsmanship and attention to detail. They are meticulously stitched by skilled artisans, resulting in a refined and elegant finish.
The real signature of a Neapolitan jacket Is the “ribattitura fino in fondo”
This edge-hand stitching is a peculiarity of Neapolitan tailoring.
All our jackets have this characteristic.
Bespoke Neapolitan trousers are typically handmade by skilled artisans who have honed their craft over many years. These craftsmen pay meticulous attention to every detail, from cutting the fabric to hand-sewing elements like the waistband, pockets, and hems. The result is an exceptional level of craftsmanship and quality.
The bespoke process usually involves two fittings to ensure the trousers fit perfectly. During these fittings, the tailor makes adjustments and refinements based on the customer's feedback and the desired fit. This iterative process ensures that the final trousers meet the customer's
Travetti and ribattitura made by hand are distinctive features of Neapolitan tailored trousers. These artisanal and high-quality details contribute to creating a unique and refined garment.
These hand stitches are strategically placed to reinforce the seams and increase the fabric's strength. Travetti provide greater durability and are a hallmark of the craftsmanship and attention to detail that characterize Neapolitan tailored trousers.
Ribattitura is another hand-stitching technique used to secure fabric edges together. In Neapolitan tailored trousers, ribattitura is often applied to the side seams of the trousers and pocket seams. This hand stitching adds strength and longevity to the garment while providing a clean and neat finish.
The "pancerina" in men's tailored trousers refers to an additional element in the inner waistband of the pants. The pancerina is a strip of fabric or lining that is sewn inside the waistband. This extra layer of fabric reinforces and stabilizes the trousers' waist area.
The pancerina can contribute to improved comfort in the trousers. Adding an extra layer of fabric in the waist area can offer support and protection.
Usually to produce a bespoke suit we need four to five weeks with one fitting after measurements. All our Suits, Bespoke and Ready to Wear are made in Naples.
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